MFW: FENDI Autumn/Winter 2022-2023 Collection
For Fall/Winter 2022-2023, Kim Jones refracts two iconic FENDI collections reconfiguring the past for today and considering the house’s signatures with a fresh perspective.
For his Fendi Fall/Winter 2022-2023 Ready-to-Wear collection, Kim Jones took a fresher contemporary perspective for the whole collection. He found inspiration in Delfina Delettrez walking into the Roman headquarters dressed in a printed blouse stolen from her mother’s wardrobe, leading him to dig into the past and give the House’s signatures a new perspective fit for the present. “The best place to explore the FENDI archives is through the Fendi wardrobes,” notes Jones. “And these are collections which, although they come from the past, feel very now.”
By rethinking and pairing the geometric prints and styling of 1986 tailoring with the lightness of the Fall/Winter 2000 collection, the result that emerges is a diametric study of strength and softness, a catwalk of powerful women dressed in garments of great beauty.
“It brings me directly to the history of my family. I saw these prints on myself; Kim saw them on Delfina,” explains Silvia Venturini Fendi. “What interests me the most about fashion is when it isn’t something just for the moment – and with FENDI, that is always the case, because it is never banal. There is always a story behind each piece, something a little different.”
Models wore plaid pants, high-waisted skirts and corset-style shirts. Jackets were cropped, pants were slim, and belts had pockets to carry phones.
“It’s a wardrobe designed for all aspects of a woman’s life, for all generations,” Jones said. “And it all started with Delfina.”
As for accessories, Venturini Fendi commemorated 25 years of the brand’s Baguette bag by bringing back editions in cashmere, shearling-lined fur and intarsia mink.
Fendi’s classic utilitarianism, an irreverent composition of form and function, is incorporated into these garments with transformative functionality: the blazer jacket separates to make way for a fitted vest, a belt has been designed with pockets both to mark the waist and to carry a cell phone.
In addition, Fendi’s techniques were used to create illusions in reused curly mohair fabrics that look like sheepskin or using shaved sheepskin that resembles fur. The O’Lock print, first seen in the Fall/Winter 2022 menswear collection, is translated into womenswear with an ethereal lightness.
